Kinabatangan River
Last Updated on 24 September 2025
Wildlife Safari at the Kinabatangan River
The Kinabatangan River in Sabah, Malaysia, is famed as one of the best places in Borneo to experience wildlife up close. We recently spent 3 days and 4 nights at the cozy Ulu Malapi Bed & Breakfast nestled along the Kinabatangan River and the experience is one we’ll treasure for a long time.
Located across the river from Sukau Village, Ulu Malapi Bed & Breakfast is a simple yet welcoming lodge that made us feel right at home. The rooms were clean and comfortable, and the family running the place welcomed us with warm smiles and delicious home-cooked meals. Sitting on the veranda, we could hear hornbills calling in the distance and the constant background chorus of the jungle—it was the perfect reminder that we were truly in the wild heart of Borneo.
Magical Boat Rides
The highlight of any Kinabatangan trip is, of course, the river safaris. Over the course of five boat rides—two at dawn and three in the afternoons—we got to experience the river in all its moods. We opted for the “birdwatching package”, which gave us extended boat rides (3-4 hours instead of the usual 2 hours) so that we could spend more time stalking the birds.
Each ride felt different, like the river had a new story to tell every time. At sunrise, the river was still and quiet, with mist rising off the water. At sunset, the sky blazed orange and pink, casting the whole jungle in a magical glow. We never got tired of just drifting along, waiting to see what would appear next.
Our favorite moments were when our boat left the main river and slipped into one of the narrow tributaries. The waterway was calm and shaded, it felt like entering a secret passageway into the jungle.
As we drifted along, the jungle seemed to close in around us, its towering trees and tangled vines forming a living tunnel.
Every twist and turn brought the thrill of discovery—would a proboscis monkey be perched in the branches, or perhaps a hornbill winging overhead?
The pace of the river was unhurried, and for a while it felt as though time itself had slowed to match its flow.
The Borneo Big 5
During the trip, we were lucky enough to encounter the famous Borneo Big 5—the five most iconic animals of the Kinabatangan—within our first two boat rides.
The Proboscis Monkeys (Nasalis larvatus), with their comical noses and potbellies, are always a joy to watch. They often gathered in groups at the riverside, leaping effortlessly from branch to branch or lounging as if posing for the cameras.
Encountering wild Bornean Orangutans (Pongo pygmaeus) was a dream come true. The first sighting was of a shy pair that kept themselves hidden behind palm leaves, teasing us with only fleeting glimpses. The second, though, was much more rewarding—a hungry individual perched by the edge of the river, happily gorging on tiny berries oblivious to curious stares.
And then there were the elephants. One afternoon, our boat brought us to the edge of a palm plantation, and there they were, —a family of Bornean Pygmy Elephants (Elephas maximus borneensis) grazing on the oil palms. The palm trees had been recently felled, and the elephants took full advantage, feasting on the fallen trunks and turning a cleared plantation into their temporary buffet.
On another occasion, our boat was cruising in a river tributary and ran into a family of Bornean Pygmy Elephants dozing on the river bank. We sat in stunned silence, just watching them, knowing what a rare and special sight it was.
The Saltwater Crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) added a sense of thrilling danger to the river. They often appeared as silent shapes along the muddy banks, barely moving except for the flick of an eye, reminding us whose territory we were visiting.
Just as we rounded a bend in the river one morning, we suddenly came face-to-face with a magnificent Rhinoceros Hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros) perched on a branch that jutted over the water. We couldn’t believe our luck—it looked like it had popped out just to check us out! Its huge and striking casque glowed in the sunlight, and we found ourselves holding our breath, half hoping it wouldn’t fly away. Then, with a mighty flap, it launched into the air, gliding gracefully along the river, leaving us in awe of its sheer presence.
Going After the Hornbills
One of our missions during the trip was ambitious: to spot all eight hornbill species known to inhabit the Kinabatangan. We set off early each day, scanning the treetops, listening for the unmistakable calls, and holding our breath every time a large silhouette glided past. More often than not, their loud wingbeats echoed across the river before their striking forms appeared overhead.
In the end, we managed to tick off six species: the Rhinoceros Hornbill (one of the Borneo Big 5), the ubiquitous Oriental Pied Hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris)…
…the clownish Wrinkled Hornbill (Rhabdotorrhinus corrugatus)…
…the elegant White-crowned Hornbill (Berenicornis comatus), reminiscent of Cruella de Vil…
…the social Bushy-crested Hornbills (Anorrhinus galeritus) that are always seen in groups…
…and the sleek Black Hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus)—both the white-and-black male…
…and the all-black female.
We dipped on the elusive Wreathed Hornbill (which we had seen previously at Langkawi) and the Helmeted Hornbill (which remains on our wish list), but that means we’ll have a reason to come back next time.
Other Wildlife Encounters
The Kinabatangan was full of surprises beyond the Big 5 and hornbills. One of the most thrilling sights on the river was the endangered Storm’s Stork (Ciconia stormi). At one point, a small group circled overhead, wings outstretched, casting fleeting shadows across the water. As the rarest of all storks, the Storm’s Stork is a true rainforest treasure, and Kinabatangan is one of the best places in Borneo to catch a glimpse of this precious bird. Needless to say, we were ecstatic to see these storks in its natural habitat.
One of the most common raptors to grace the skies of Kinabatangan is the Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle (Nisaetus nanus). Every sighting of the majestic Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle perched high in the treetops filled us with delight, its presence seeming almost mythical.
Another raptor often seen is the Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela), usually perched high up in a distant tree or soaring far away. One afternoon, a lone individual swooped low over our heads, its impressive silhouette leaving us momentarily breathless with awe.
At dusk one evening, a Bat Hawk (Macheiramphus alcinus) glided by in the distance, moving with the hurried purpose of someone heading home. It flew by so quickly, it was gone in the blink of an eye.
Kingfishers were a constant source of delight along the river. Tiny flashes of blue and orange would dart low over the water, diving with precision to snatch unsuspecting fish. Some perched quietly on branches, tilting their heads as if sizing up their next meal…
…while others were caught with a fish in their beak, ready to bash it before guzzling it down.
A standout moment of the trip was encountering a Sabah Partridge (Tropicoperdix graydoni), one of Borneo’s elusive forest endemics. Our keen-eyed boatman and guide, Awang, suddenly picked up its distant call and steered us straight toward it. After a brief search, we were rewarded with close-up views of this brown beauty, its earthy plumage blending seamlessly with the leaf litter.
The riverbanks were alive with small, energetic birds that kept us on our toes. We caught glimpses of the dazzling Malaysian Blue Flycatcher—both the male…
…and the female—their vivid blue feathers flashing like jewels whenever they flitted from branch to branch.
The Bornean Swamp Babbler (Pellorneum rostratum macropterum) darted playfully through the undergrowth, its subtle brown tones blending with the murky forest floor.
And then there was the Bold-striped Tit-babbler (Mixornis bornensis), hopping in short, quick bursts along twigs and roots, often disappearing behind leaves the moment I tried to get a clear shot.
The other primates of the forest kept us constantly entertained during our boat rides. The silvery-furred Silvered Leaf Monkeys (Trachypithecus cristatus) often lingered in the same tree, and we would spot them there almost every afternoon.
The stockier Southern Pig-tailed Macaques were fun to watch from a safe distance—just far enough to avoid any teeth-baring theatrics.
But the real show came when a troop of Long-tailed Macaques (Macaca fascicularis) decided to tackle a rope bridge over a narrow tributary.
One by one, they inched their way across, gripping the ropes tightly and glancing nervously at the water below before making their dash to the other side.
Sunset on the Kinabatangan turned the river into liquid gold, as we drifted along mesmerised by the glowing treetops.
In the evenings, flocks of Large Flying Foxes (Pteropus vampyrus) would stir from their roosts and swoop across the river, turning the sky into a spellbinding spectacle that had us craning our necks in awe.
When we finally return to the B&B after a long boat ride, the resident one-eyed Buffy Fish Owl (Ketupa ketupu) that goes by the name “Buta” would be there to welcome us, staring with his single eye as if to say, “So, hoomans, where’s my fish?”
After a long day on the river, dinner at the B&B was a welcome treat. The table would be laden with hearty, home-cooked dishes—fragrant rice, spicy curry, tender meats, and fresh vegetables that tasted like they’d just been picked from the garden.
Between the boat rides, life at Ulu Malapi was peaceful and grounding. Afternoons were spent lounging around, keeping an eye out for the random birds that called the grounds home. Evenings unfolded slowly and calmly; we’d sit outside, listening to frogs and insects while Buta leisurely savored his fish. It was the kind of stillness you rarely get in everyday life.
Want the full list of bird sightings? Peek at our eBird trip report here:
https://ebird.org/tripreport/410700?view=photos