Gunung Alab

Posted On 22 May 2024

Last Updated on 29 July 2024

We had heard about Gunung Alab – perched in the Crocker Range National Park – being a popular birding hotspot located just a mere 50 km hop away from Sabah’s bustling capital, Kota Kinabalu. So, naturally, we kicked off our Sabah birding adventure at Gunung Alab, making it our first pit stop on the way to Kinabalu Park.

This montane forest wonderland, set at a lofty 2,000 metres above sea level, boasts a cool climate with frequent mists and rain that keep things lush and green, perfect for our avian pals. And the best part? It is home to some of Borneo’s exclusive bird species, some of which may be tricky to find elsewhere in Sabah.

True to its soggy reputation, we were greeted us with relentless rain and a blanket of thick mist on our arrival in the afternoon. This weather drama meant we had to postpone our birding quest until the next morning. At first light, we seized the opportunity, eager and ready. We drove up the winding road leading to Gunung Alab Substation, parked by the roadside, and took a leisurely 1-km stroll to the telecom tower at the top. The morning kicked off with a light drizzle, slightly dampening our spirits. However, we slowly perked up as the drizzle ceased and the sun peeked through the clouds.

All along the way, we could hear the cheery calls of the Aberrant Bush Warblers (Horornis flavolivaceus). These little songsters seemed to be lurking every few metres, playing a game of hide-and-seek and stubbornly refusing to show their faces. It took ages of peering into the foliage before we finally saw one pop out for a split second, only to dart back into his leafy hideout.

At the end of the road was a sheltered bird hide, where the feathered residents are known to be friendly and welcoming. As we approached, the bushes beside the hide buzzed with birdy activity. I was so thrilled by the flurry of wings that I could hardly focus on any single bird.

After some frantic camera work, I finally managed to snap a few shots of the Chestnut-crested Yuhinia (Staphida everetti)…

…and the Mountain Black-eye (Zosterops emiliae).

The female Little Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula westermanni) perched on the telecom fence outside the bird hide was a pleasant bonus.

At the bird shelter, we met a local birder couple who generously shared tips on how to get to another secret, tucked-away bird hide deep in the forest. Following their instructions, we trekked through a short muddy trail and soon found ourselves in a magical forest that felt like the middle of nowhere.

We hadn’t planned on staying long at the forest hide, as we did not bring any snacks to lure the birds. However, a pair of Snowy-browed Flycatchers (Ficedula hyperythra) soon appeared, twirling and flitting about, casting a spell on us with their graceful dance. The male, dressed to impress in his royal blue cape, bright orange bib and striking white eyeliner, was particularly captivating.

The female, though less flashy, was just as charming.

Just as we stood there entranced, a flock of laughingthrushes whooshed in and began nibbling at some corn left out by a previous birding party. The Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush (Pterorhinus treacheri) was the first to catch our eye…

…soon joined by the lively Sunda Laughingthrush (Garrulax palliatus).

Completely under the forest’s spell, we couldn’t bring ourselves to leave. Just then, the magical woods upped the ante, luring out a family of Red-breasted Partridges (Arborophila hyperythra) – all five of them – who strutted onto the stage for the grand finale of the forest parade.

Back at the Gunung Alab Motel where we bunked for the night, the local colony of Plume-toed Swiftlets (Collocalia affinis) were going about their usual nesting routine under the motel roof.

Some were on egg-sitting duty, others were busy with nest construction, and many were zipping in and out on a never-ending food delivery mission for their hungry offspring. Meanwhile, a few were squabbling over roosting positions. It was like watching a swiftlet soap opera!

From the comfort our of motel room, we had front-row seats to the backyard wildlife show. The star performers were a family of Long-tailed Macaques (Macaca fascicularis) who dropped by to pilfer the snacks left out for them.

After the short one-day introduction to the birds of Sabah at Gunung Alab, we proceeded to the famous Kinabalu Park to hunt for more avian treasures of the montane forests of Borneo.