Poring Hot Springs
Poring Hot Springs is a popular tourist destination in Sabah, Malaysia, located within the Kinabalu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the go-to spot for those seeking a dip in nature’s own hot tub. These sulphur-rich springs are famous for their magical healing powers – or at least that’s what the legend says.
But it’s not just about the bubbling baths – several trails meander around the area perfect for nature walks and getting cozy with the local flora and fauna.
We showed up bright and early, only to find most of the park still snoozing. With nothing else to do, we set our sights on the Langanan Waterfall Trail—a treacherous 3.4-km hike (or 6.8 km if you count the return trip) through a jungle that is basically a leech’s idea of paradise. At the trailhead, we met our enthusiastic guide, Lilly, who was practically bouncing with excitement to drag us through this “adventure”.
As soon as we stepped in, we met our first birdie lifer, the Rufous Piculet (Sasia abnormis), a pint-sized bundle of cuteness. Picture a bird about the size of a golf ball, strutting around in a stylish rust-coloured suit with a little olive-green vest. Its beady little eyes give it an expression of constant surprise, as if it only just realised it’s the smallest woodpecker in town.
As we strolled on, we heard a familiar screech echoing from up above. We looked up just in time to spot the Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela) cruising through the sky, on his regular morning patrol keeping an eye on his domain.
A few hundred meters in, we reached our first stop – the Kipungit Waterfall. While we were busy snapping photos of the cascading waters, our guide Lilly looked like she had seen it all before – probably because she has, like, a million times. Her expression was a mix of “Oh, look, water” and “Can we move on now?”.
Chasing after Lilly as she practically leaped over the bumpy trail, we stumbled upon our next photo op – the Bat Cave. This is a limestone cave supposedly housing hundreds of bats, though we didn’t see any.
Around the area, a juvenile White-crowned Shama (Copsychus stricklandii) was standing guard, keeping a vigilant eye out for any would-be cave crashers.
As we navigated the trail, we faced a series of river crossings that had us leaping from rock to rock like we were at a parkour obstacle course. The third crossing – complete with ropes that looked like they were designed for extreme sports – proved too daunting for my not-so-sure-footedness.
Lilly, on the other hand, bounded across with the grace of a jungle ballerina and even performed a few demonstrations to encourage us. Despite her best efforts, we decided to call it a day and gracefully made a U-turn.
Along the way back, several birds came out to cheer us on, including this Little Spiderhunter (Arachnothera longirostra) with his feathery pom poms.
Back at the Poring entrance, we stumbled upon a family of Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatchers (Cyornis olivaceus) on their own little outing. One pair was belting out tunes like they were auditioning for a birdie talent show while we tried our best to track them down. We finally caught sight of one enthusiastic crooner, who continued his serenade.
Nearby, his wide-eyed offspring was lounging on a branch, looking as sweet and innocent as a feathered angel.
By mid-morning, the Poring Canopy Walkway had swung open to visitors, and we figured, why not? What an experience it turned out to be! Picture trying to stay calm while tiptoeing across a narrow, slightly wobbly bridge dangling high above the jungle floor. For anyone who’s not a fan of heights, it’s basically a rollercoaster minus the tracks.
The walkway features a series of 5 ropeways, and it’s a one-way trip – no backing out once you’re in. While we waited for our turn, we saw a couple attempting a dramatic retreat, realising too late that the walkway was giving them the kind of thrill that’s more terror than excitement!
In between ropeways, we had ample chances to catch our breath, gather our wits, and soak in the breathtaking views – essentially a “survival break” with a side of scenic beauty!
It was on one of these breather breaks when we caught sight of a Verditer Flycatcher (Eumyias thalassinus), flaunting his beautiful bright blue tuxedo and totally stealing the spotlight from the view.
On the return leg, we crossed paths with a grumpy Rufous-crowned Babbler (Malacopteron magnum), who gave us a look that clearly said, “Not impressed” before zipping off with a dramatic flurry of feathers.
After the adrenaline rush of the canopy walk, we thought it wise to take it slow and meander through the Butterfly Garden. And what did we do in a garden full of butterflies? Look for birds, of course!
Some of the charismatic and colourful birds we spotted around the garden were the Crimson Sunbird (Aethopyga siparaja)…
…and the Orange-bellied Flowerpecker (Dicaeum trigonostigma).
As we were heading out of the park, we stumbled upon a bulbul bash – apparently, they were having a picnic! We couldn’t resist joining the feathered fiesta. The guest list included the Black-headed Bulbuls (Microtarsus melanocephalos)…
…the Streaked Bulbuls (Ixos malaccensis)…
…the Spectacled Bulbuls (Rubigula erythropthalmos)…
…and the Red-eyed Bulbuls (Pycnonotus brunneus)…
…all flaunting the delicious snacks they were having at their gourmet birdie buffet.
Check out our Sabah ebird trip report right here:
https://ebird.org/tripreport/244395?view=photos